Citizens’
Environmental Coalition's
BUILDING
GREEN WITHOUT GOING IN THE RED
Written by:
Kathleen Curtis and Roberta Chase
Research and assistance by:
Jennifer Barnes, Michael Schade, Amy Liberatore and Prateek Kumar
Reviewed by:
Graphic Design by Patt
Kelly
Design Printed by Kendall
Press on recycled stock
Citizens’ Environmental Coalition is a statewide grassroots environmental organization working to eliminate pollution in New York State by empowering people. For additional information about CEC, contact our offices: Main Office 33 Central Avenue, Albany, NY 12210 518-462-5527 Fax: 518-465-8349 WNY Office 543 Franklin Street, Suite 2, Buffalo, NY 14202 716-885-6848 Fax: 716-885-6845 www.cectoxic.org
GREEN BUILDING
The practice of 1) improving the efficiency with which buildings and their sites use energy, water and materials, and 2) reducing building impacts on human health and the environment through better siting, design, construction, operation, maintenance and removal – the complete building lifecycle.
— The Office of the Federal Environmental ExecutiveSUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT
That which “meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.”
— The UN World Commission on Environment and Development
Human beings are driven by a strong desire to make, to build, to construct. Many of us as children built forts out back, scavenging whatever building materials we could find, digging under the ground, building tree houses, constructing lean-to’s, or cutting out windows in the box the refrigerator came in and drawing curtains and a picket fence on the cardboard. Some collapsed, some were washed away, but some endured for a surprisingly long time. They afforded us a respite from our parents, and provided us an entrée into pseudo adulthood. We decorated them lovingly, and some became a quite elaborate amalgam of the diverse contributions to their construction.
People spend 65% percent of their time in their homes. The built environment is often disregarded, because it is so familiar, yet it is where we live. That is why we created this guide, to improve your knowledge and decision-making ability to choose building materials that are safer for your family and more environmentally friendly while still being cost-effective. When we do this, we not only protect ourselves and our families, we also protect the larger environment as a whole, since many toxic building materials threaten the environment and our health at several points from manufacture to use to demolition – what is called their “lifecycle.“
We conducted an informal survey to determine the focus and value this guide would have. Many who responded were organizational members, attendees at grassroots events, or others who were somewhat versed in environmental issues.
Among survey respondents, an overwhelming majority realized building materials had serious environmental health impacts. However, the numbers dropped when it got down to specifics. For example, less than half of the respondents knew that PVC must be mixed with toxic chemicals such as lead and phthalates in order to have the necessary properties, such as rigidity or flexibility. Roughly 2/3 of respondents generally knew there were available, affordable, safer products, such as paints that release little or no harmful fumes and recycled deck material that isn’t treated with arsenic or chromium. But less than half knew that linoleum was different than vinyl, drywall was available made from recycled gypsum, or that carpets are tested and rated for their impacts on indoor air quality.
In response to the question of how important are cleaner, safer building materials on a scale of one to five, five being the most important, nearly 94% rated its importance as high to very high. Of all respondents, 98% replied that they would consider a guide to green building materials important in helping them select cleaner, safer products. The single topic respondents considered most valuable by far when selecting green building materials was non-toxicity. Other important topics, in order of priority, were energy efficiency, cost, recyclability, availability, and recycled content.
Of those who replied to the final, open ended question about what else they would find useful in an affordable green building materials guide, the most common response was some version of “Where do I get them?” Several subsets of that response showed up repeatedly, such as requests for specific contractors, brand names, other resources such as web sites, labeling (similar to the U.S. Department of Energy’s “Energy Star” program – www.energystar.gov), and specific retail outlets and their locations. Other responses expressed concern about where and how to dispose of waste, the challenge of recycling small amounts, and how to deal with toxic materials already in your house. One respondent urged us to use language the common person could understand. Another asked for deep alternatives, like straw bale houses and composting toilets (see page 30). Two respondents wanted to be more action-oriented, asking us to name politicians that support green building initiatives, and those who don’t, and requesting incidences in which building material suppliers knew the harmful effects their materials caused, yet took no action to redress the problems.
This guide is meant to both empower and inspire you to compare building materials and make your own educated choices that affordably avoid PVC, formaldehyde, arsenic, chromium and other toxic chemicals. You can be part of creating a change in the cost, availability and selection of building materials on the market by choosing to buy healthy building materials for your next home improvement or construction project. In making better building material purchasing decisions, together we can cause a transformation in the overall selection, availability, and affordability of safer products. As more and more of us make these choices, we send a strong signal to manufacturers and distributors. As demand increases, manufacturers can take advantage of the “economy of scale,” or a reduction in cost per unit resulting from increased production, realized through operational efficiencies. Economies of scale can be accomplished because as production increases, the cost of producing each additional unit falls. Therefore, green building materials become less of a “gourmet” product, and more commonplace. Together we can hasten the day when it’s easy to get inexpensive, durable, sustainable building materials at every home improvement store and through every distributor
Deforestation, toxic chemical pollution from production facilities, and incineration and landfilling of construction and demolition waste are just some of the problems our growing housing needs cause. Materials can also contribute to poor indoor air quality and cause health problems, because they contain toxic chemicals like phthalates, arsenic, and formaldehyde. The following are some examples of building materials that can leave a huge ecological footprint. Improvements over these worst-in-class materials are presented throughout the rest of this guide.
Polyvinyl chloride, also known as PVC or vinyl,pollutes throughout its entire lifecycle. The production, use, and disposal of this seemingly innocuous plastic exposes us to dioxin, vinyl chloride, phthalates, heavy metals and hydrochloric acid. An estimated 75% of all PVC is used in building materials. Nearly half of all PVC is used in pipes, such as water mains, electrical conduits and wastewater pipes. The next largest use is for other construction materials such as siding, windows and doors, and roofing products.
PVC and Dioxin – The EPA considers dioxin to be one of the most dangerous chemicals ever created, due to the effects it can have at extremely low levels. It lasts a long time in the environment, builds up through the food chain to humans, and travels vast distances from where it is generated. Most human exposure to dioxin comes from consuming dioxin-contaminated foods like meat, eggs and milk. The largest material source of dioxin comes from the production and destruction of polyvinyl chloride.
PVC and Vinyl Chloride Monomer – Vinyl chloride (the basic building block of PVC) is one of the few chemicals that are classified as a known human carcinogen. There is no safe level of exposure to it. Many thousands of tons per year of vinyl chloride monomer are released into the environment, exposing workers and communities.
PVC and Phthalates – To make PVC products such as roofing, flooring, wall covering, and sheathing for wire and cable, plasticizers known as phthalates must be added in large quantities to make the PVC flexible. About 90% of all phthalates are used in PVC, to the tune of over 5 million tons per year. Phthalates are released when PVC is formulated, molded, used, disposed of, or accidentally burned. The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), one such commonly used phthalate, may reasonably be anticipated to be a human carcinogen. The EPA has determined that DEHP is a probable human carcinogen. Phthalates are known carcinogens in laboratory animals. They are everywhere, and can cause infertility, testicular damage, reduced sperm count, abnormal testicular development and other reproductive damage. American phthalate exposure is now roughly equal to the EPA’s maximum “acceptable” exposure. Phthalates in indoor air can trigger asthma attacks and other respiratory conditions.
PVC and Heavy Metals – In order to make PVC more rigid and sturdy, one must add metal stabilizers such as lead, cadmium and organotins. These metals do not break down in the environment, and are global pollutants. Lead damages developing brains, lowers IQ, and causes learning disabilities. Cadmium is a carcinogen. Organotins suppress our immune system and disrupt our endocrine system. All of these metals are released from PVC during formulation, use, and disposal.
PVC and Hydrochloric Acid – PVC poses a great risk in backyard burning, waste incineration and house fires. In addition to releasing dioxin, it releases lethal gases, such as hydrogen chloride, which becomes hydrochloric acid when inhaled, long before the PVC ignites. This hydrogen chloride gas poses the biggest threat to firefighters, occupants and neighbors in the event of an accidental house fire. It can also contribute to acid rain.
PHOTO: Joseph Urbaszewski
Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) consists of chromium VI (a bactericide), copper (a fungicide) and arsenic (an insecticide) and is the most common arsenic formulation used to treat wood in the United States. It is often sold under the trade name “Wolmanized” wood. Ammoniacal Copper Zinc Arsenate (ACZA) is a very similar arsenic formulation sold primarily on the West Coast as Chemonite.
Arsenic - Inorganic arsenic is a known carcinogen, linked to skin, bladder, liver and lung cancers. Human and animal data suggest that inorganic arsenic is also a reproductive hazard. Released arsenic can find its way into our bodies, the food chain, and groundwater. Although the EPA is phasing out arsenic treated wood, it may still be in stores. When pulling out old decks, playgrounds and garden borders you are likely to find CCA treated wood. If you saw or sand arsenic-treated wood, you will probably inhale some of the sawdust. Similarly, if you burn arsenictreated wood, you will inhale arsenic in the smoke. Burning CCA wood creates a highly toxic ash. One tablespoon of ash from a CCA wood fire contains a lethal dose of arsenic. This has serious implications for firefighters and clean-up operations. The World Health Organization (WHO), the Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS), and the EPA have determined that inorganic arsenic is a human carcinogen.
According to the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR), breathing inorganic arsenic can give you a sore throat or irritated lungs. Ingesting high levels of inorganic arsenic can result in death. Lower levels of arsenic can cause nausea and vomiting, decreased production of red and white blood cells, abnormal heart rhythm, damage to blood vessels, and a sensation of “pins and needles” in hands and feet. Ingesting or breathing inorganic arsenic for a long time can cause a darkening of the skin and the appearance of small “corns” or “warts” on the palms, soles, and torso. Skin contact with inorganic arsenic may cause redness and swelling.
Chromium VI - The World Health Organization, Department of Health and Human Services and EPA have all determined that chromium VI is a human carcinogen. Birth defects have been observed in animals exposed to chromium.
Chromium VI should not be confused with the essential nutrient chromium III, which helps the body use sugar, protein, and fat.
Breathing chromium VI can cause irritation to the nose ranging from runny nose, to nosebleeds, to ulcers and holes in the nasal septum. Ingesting chromium VI can cause stomach upsets and ulcers, convulsions, kidney and liver damage, and even death. Skin contact with certain chromium VI compounds can cause skin ulcers. Some people are extremely sensitive to chromium VI. Allergic reactions consist of severe redness and swelling of the skin.
Formaldehyde is found in many products used to build a house, such as glues and adhesives, lacquers, paper, plastics, interior plywood, floor finishes, veneered or laminated cabinets, and paneling. Some people are exposed to higher levels of formaldehyde if they live in a new mobile home, as formaldehyde is given off as a gas from the manufactured wood products used in these homes.
There is usually more formaldehyde present indoors than outdoors. Formaldehyde is released to the air you breath while using latex paint, plywood and particle board, as well as furniture and cabinets made from them. Fiberglass products, new carpets, and decorative laminates also give off formaldehyde.
Particle board is the major contributor of formaldehyde to the home environment. The culprit is the adhesive, urea formaldehyde, which can break down, releasing the formaldehyde into the air. Phenol formaldehyde (used in exterior panels) does not present such problems. Some particleboard is now manufactured with reduced total formaldehyde.
The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that formaldehyde is reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans.
Formaldehyde has been linked to “sick building syndrome” where people living or working in a particular building develop symptoms and ailments that aren’t connected with a specific disease. Some people who are exposed to formaldehyde develop chemical sensitivities, which means they can suffer painful symptoms from very low levels of exposures to particular toxins – even at levels that otherwise healthy individuals might not notice.
Building a new home provides the opportunity for preventing indoor air problems. However, it can result in exposure to higher levels of indoor air contaminants if careful attention is not given to potential pollution sources and the air exchange rate. There are many sources of indoor air pollution in any home. These include combustion sources such as oil, gas, kerosene, coal, and wood, building materials and furnishings as diverse as deteriorated, asbestos-containing insulation, carpet, and cabinetry or furniture made of certain pressed wood products. Building materials release pollutants more or less continuously, and high pollutant concentrations can remain in the air for long periods after installation, or redecorating activities such as use of paint strippers. Adhesives associated with wall coverings, and the mold that may result when moisture is trapped behind PVC wall covering also contribute to poor indoor air quality. Finally, the cleaning and maintenance products you use may also contain toxic chemicals. Express your concerns about indoor air quality to your architect or builder and enlist his or her cooperation in taking measures to provide good indoor air quality. Talk both about purchasing building materials, finishes and furnishings that are low-emitting and about providing an adequate amount of ventilation. Exercise care and caution in selection of wall finishes to minimize the risk of trapping moisture behind impermeable surfaces.
Construction and Demolition (C&D) debris consists of the waste generated during construction, renovation, and demolition projects. Covering a wide array of materials including wood, concrete, steel, brick, and gypsum, C&D debris is a large and complex waste stream. Reducing C&D debris conserves landfill space, reduces the environmental impact of producing new materials, and can reduce overall building project expenses through avoided purchase/ disposal costs. The most recent EPA study put the amount of C&D waste generated nationally at a staggering 136 million tons in 1996. In cities around the country, construction and demolition (C&D) debris—the waste produced in the course of constructing, renovating, and demolishing buildings—accounts for 10 percent to as much as 30 percent of the total municipal waste stream.
SITE DECISIONS
The choices you and your designer make in siting a new home or addition can save energy and money through passive solar heating, natural daylighting and adequate ventilation.
Take advantage of “passive solar” heating ng the sun’s energy coming through windows to heat the home, for example – properly orienting your home in respect to living area, window exposure and wall area, you can dramatically reduce heating and cooling loads. Check out the following for more information about passive solar designs:
“Daylighting” is really just the act of illuminating rooms naturally. Whenever you light a room with a window or skylight instead of flipping on a light switch, you are daylighting. It’s that simple. For interior rooms, or further from a roof (where a traditional skylight is impractical), you can use “sun pipes” that are skylights with reflective pipes that bounce light down to the interior room’s ceiling. This cuts down on use of electric lights during the day in dim parts of the house and can reduce heating costs, as electric lights can generate significant amounts of heat. Companies like Solatube make residential products. Home Tips.com has a good discussion about easy steps toward improving the amount of daylight in your home.
Good ventilation is critical to good indoor air quality. You need to strike a balance between an energy-efficient house, which is often tightly sealed to prevent cold draughts, and good indoor air quality, which relies on frequent air exchanges, or replacement of indoor air with fresh air from outside. In older houses, this happens by accident – how many of us have been in homes with lots of draughts? Today, as there is greater emphasis on having the exterior tightly sealed, we need to be more thoughtful. When air is trapped inside the house, it can keep exposing you to pollutants and allergens. Fortunately, there are several options, the most effective being small energy efficient fans with a “heat exchanger” and air filter placed in the attic to both bring in fresh air and pull out stale air. The heat exchanger transfers heat from the warmer flow to the cooler flow, which can save heating costs in winter. The air filter removes allergens and particulates on the way in.
LANDSCAPING
Designing sustainable landscapes can decrease maintenance - watering, mowing, fertilizing and pesticide application, while conserving water, improving soil and increasing biodiversity. Consider gardens with perennial plants suitable to the climate and soil, and consider replacing turf grass and sod with native plants – a practice known as “xeriscaping”. Here are some websites to help you plan your lawn and garden:
WATER RETENTION
Channeling rainwater through gutters and downspouts into an above ground cistern or below ground gravel dry well to use for landscape and garden irrigation keeps water runoff from overloading storm drains or increasing flooding, while providing a free source of water for lawns and gardens, making you less dependent on treated drinkable water when caring for your yard.
As construction begins, your contractor will make decisions about managing the site that can either help or harm the environment and affect costs. Be sure to talk with prospective contractors about using environmentally friendly approaches as many aren’t familiar with them. By discussing this up front, you can ensure the job will be done the way you want it. Require your contractor to:
| Organization Name | City | Zip | Telephone |
| Association for Resource Conservation | Centerport | 11721 | 613-580-7290 |
| Building Preservation Works, LLC | Homer | 13077 | 607-749-8889 |
| ERC Community Warehouse, Inc. | Hoosick Falls | 12090 | 518-686-7540 |
| Habitat for Humanity of Westchester ReStore | New Rochelle | 10801 | 914-829-7586 |
| Historic Home Supply Corp | Troy | 12180-380 | 518-266-0675 |
| Hudson Valley Materials Exchange | New Windsor | 12553 | 845-567-1445 |
| Long Island City Business Development Corporation | Long Island | 11101 | 718-786-5300 |
| Mat-Ex Online Western/Central NY Materials Exchange | 21 Western/Central NY Counties | 585-344-2580 x5464 | |
| NY WasteMatch | New York City | 10007 | 212-442-5219 |
| Significant Elements | Ithaca | 14850 | 607-277-3450 |
| Zaborski Emporium | Kingston | 12401 | 914-338-6465 |
(from www.redo.org, www.mat-ex.org, and www.preservationworks.com)
Most homes today rely on the use of poured concrete. Houses built with natural building materials don’t necessarily rely on poured concrete – for more information about them, please see page 30.
A contractor can take a number of steps to conserve resources when pouring your foundation:
Some concrete is made with ash from incinerators or coal-fired power plants. Although these products are sometimes touted as good for the environment because it’s a supposedly “beneficial use” of material that would otherwise require disposal in a hazardous waste landfill, this concrete contains heavy metals, which could leach out over time.
There are several key steps to keeping water from entering your house, which can lead to mold and rot. These involve both waterproofing -- keeping liquid water from being forced through small holes into your house -- and damp-proofing -- keeping water vapor from seeping through the foundation.
The sill plate is the piece of wood that is placed on top of the foundation to anchor walls. Because it comes into contact with moisture, building codes require it to be pressure treated to resist rot and pests. Until recently, chromated copper arsenate was the common chemical compound (CCA) for treating lumber. However, due to the extremely harmful health effects of arsenic poisoning and exposure to chromium, CCA-treated lumber is no longer being produced, but may still be on the shelf at the local do-it-yourself store. (See page 6 for a description of these hazards.) Instead choose ACQ, (Alkaline Copper Quatenary) or CBA (Copper Boron Azole). Both ACQ and CBA require use of hot-dipped (not electro-plated) galvanized or stainless steel fasteners to prevent premature rusting. (See chart on page 15.)
The frame is built attached to the sill plate. In choosing wood for framing, look for sustainably logged products. Look for Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified lumber or consider engineered lumber. If you live in an area where “deconstruction firms” disassemble buildings, consider salvaged framing (see page 15). Many wood products are harvested unsustainably, tearing apart intact ecosystems and removing “old growth” trees – the large trees from forests that have never been logged. Companies often rely on old-growth wood for large beams, since most other forests now have smaller trees. We need to conserve old growth forests, for their biological diversity. Due to rapid growth in building construction, there is increasing pressure to log the few remaining stands of these ancient trees around the world.
To make sure the wood used in your home was sustainably harvested, look for the Forest Stewardship Council’s certification. They have a rigorous set of criteria for managing forest lands, which companies must demonstrate they meet in order to be certified. More information about the Forest Stewardship Council is available on-line at www.fscus.org. The Forest Stewardship Council is recognized by most conservation and forest sustainability groups, as well as the United States Green Building Council’s Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) green building rating system. Using FSC lumber may add to lead time, as it can be more difficult to procure. There are many different types of wood certification programs in use today. They have different standards for what they consider to be sustainable, and they are not all equally stringent about ensuring accurate “chain of custody” certification -- making sure the wood you buy is from the certified forest. In general, most environmental groups support FSC, as it is the most rigorous. The American Forest & Paper Association has developed its own program for its members, called the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI). Much more lumber is SFI certified, but its program is not as stringent as FSC. Given the option, choose FSC lumber, as it offers the greatest certainty that you are buying lumber directly from a sustainably harvested forest.
Rather than using newly-cut lumber, you may want to choose lumber from a building that has been “deconstructed” – taken apart carefully to allow reuse of the components, like brick, lumber, and siding. Many reclaimed pieces of lumber are highquality, tightly grained pieces – often better quality than anything available on the market today. They can be more expensive than new lumber, and more difficult to find. If you have a renovation project that involves demolishing part of an older house, consider asking the contractor to carefully deconstruct that portion of the house and reuse the materials for the renovation project. This may cost more in labor, but it will save resources and landfill space and disposal costs.
Most 2 x 10 and larger pieces of lumber come from old growth forests. As these resources have gotten scarcer (we have cut 95% of the old-growth forests in the United States), and thus the timber has gotten more expensive, people have sought engineered lumber. As a result, there are now many different products that get their strength from resins and glues, and rely on small bits of wood from smaller trees and wood from fast growing “plantation” trees to make them nail-able and screw-able.
These include:
Engineered lumber uses smaller trees, reducing pressure on old-growth forests. Because humans created it, it is more reliable and consistent, and stronger than similarly sized all-wood timber. The benefits of this type of building material are that they use smaller trees, reducing pressure on oldgrowth forests, because they are created by humans, they are more reliable and consistent, and they are stronger than similarly sized all-wood timbers. Because it is manufactured, it requires more energy to produce, and the manufacturing process requires the use of some toxic materials (formaldehyde and methyl diphenyl diisocyanate) in the resins. (See section on page 7 for details about the indoor air impacts and environmental impacts of these chemicals). On balance, engineered lumber important stop-gap affordable substitutes for large-sized lumber, but for long-term ecological sustainability, we will need to find other solutions.
Sheathing is the outside shell of the house, made in recent decades of plywood, but previously made of planks of lumber. Currently, there are two primary choices for sheathing: plywood and oriented strand board. Plywood is made of large thin panels of wood, each layer added with the grain oriented 90 degrees from the previous one, and glued together with formaldehyde-based glue. (See page 7 for more details about the environmental and health problems formaldehyde poses.) Oriented strand board (OSB) consists of smaller wood pieces in layers at 90 degrees to one another (that’s what they mean by “oriented”) held together by glue made with formaldehyde or methyl diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI). OSB can be made from scraps of wood from other processes, while plywood is made from whole trees. Look for Forest Stewardship Council certified OSB or plywood. Home Depot and Lowe’s have both committed to purchasing FSC and otherwise certified lumber. However, not all sales associate aware of this, and labeling of these products is inconsistent. Look for the FSC logo stamped on plywood and other wood products. Another option for sheathing is homasote made of recycled paper, and which, the manufacturer claims, was the sheathing of choice from the 1930s to the 1970s. As prices for wood products have gone up, homasote may be both the less expensive and more environmentally sound choice.
Subflooring is the first layer of material put down over the frame of the house to provide a base for the finished floor product, whether it is carpet, linoleum, ceramic tile, or wood. Modern subflooring is made from plywood, which can have a high content of formaldehyde, that can “off-gas” over time into the indoor air. To prevent exposures to formaldehyde from subflooring, purchase plywood with low or no formaldehyde. You can also use oriented strand board, if you prefer (it is usually less expensive), which may or may not have formaldehyde. If you choose plywood, use “exterior grade” plywood, normally glued with phenol formaldehyde which releases less formaldehyde than the urea type used for interior grade. Strawboard, made from post-harvest wheat straw, can be used under carpets. Homasote manufactures a product that can be used for subflooring in some applications as well. Many finish floor materials have particular requirements for sub-floor stiffness and performance, which need to be considered. (See the chart to the right for options.) Look for the FSC logo stamped on plywood and other wood products.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Sill Plate | ||||
| CBA (Copper Boron Azole) treated sill plate | Wolman, Wolman Natural Select | Pro: Doesn't use arsenic Con: Requires use of galvanized fasteners, since it is more corrosive than CCA. | Stock Building Supply, Curtis Lumber 1-800-724-WOOD | $7-$8 per board (2 x 6 x 12) |
| ACQ (Ammoniacal Copper Quarternary) treated sill plate | Chemical Specialties, ACQ Preserve, Preserve Plus | Home Depot and Lowe's carry ACQ treated lumber. Or: click "where to buy" and enter zip code. Choose Preserve and Preserve Plus. | $9 per board (2 x 6 x12) | |
| Lumber for Frame | ||||
| Glulams, laminated veneer lumber (LVL) and wood I-beams | many manufacturers | Pro: Stronger and more consistent than solid wood because they're engineered. Con: Made with toxic glues that could off-gas into home, not as renewable as wood. | Special order from Home Depot or Lowe's | Lumber prices vary widely based on the day, type of lumber you want and where you're looking for it. Generally, all of these are cost-comparable. |
| Forestry Stewardship Council Certified Lumber | Adirondack Hardwood www.saranachollow.com/adkhdw.html, 518-293-8424 | Pro: Comes from well managed forests. Con: More expensive, may have limited selection. | Contact Adirondack Lumber, see also www.fscus.org | |
| Reclaimed Lumber | Recycle the Barn 610-286-5600 | Pro: Lumber from dismantled barns and antique materials. Con: Can be difficult to find, more costly | Call Recycle the Barn | More expensive, but higher quality wood |
| Sheathing & Subflooring | ||||
| Strawboard made from wheat stalks | Dow Chemical Corporation, 800-441-4369 | PRO: Made from wheat stalks after harvesting, contains no formaldehyde. CON: Can be difficult to locate. May not be warranted for all types of uses. | Difficult to find. Contact Dow for local suppliers. | Cost-comparable to OSB and plywood |
| Homasote (sheathing) | Homasote, 800-257-9491 | PRO: Made from post-consumer recycled newspaper in New Jersey. High water resistance. CON: Not appropriate for all types of flooring or siding applications. | Check your local lumber yard or click here to find a dealer. | Cost-comparable to OSB and plywood |
| Certified OSB or Plywood | Various companies | PRO: Certified lumber means the wood is
sustainably harvested according to certain organizational standards. CON: Lumber you purchasemay or may not be certified. Labeling is inconsistent. |
Lowe’s sells certified plywood. 5.2 millimeter plywood for sheathing or subflooring is either FSC or CSP certified. Home Depot provides a list by geographic region of FSC certified products available. | Cost-comparable to OSB and plywood |
Windows provide light, heat and ventilation for houses. Many old wood-frame, single-pane windows did not seal well, leading to costly energy loss. Today, there are many choices for materials to use in windows. Unfortunately, one of the most popular materials, especially for “replacement” windows, is PVC, which relies on heavy metal additives to keep the PVC from breaking down rapidly. (See page 5 for more details about the environmental and health problems PVC poses.) PVC windows have been susceptible to excess expansion and shrinkage under temperature changes, causing leaks between frame and wall. Window pulls, locks and other hardware made from PVC often crack and break with normal residential usage. Many composite windows are part PVC and PVC jamb liners and other parts are included in many “non PVC” windows.
For energy efficiency, choose double paned windows, which insulate almost twice as well as single glazing. They can make the house quieter, less drafty, and more comfortable during all seasons, while saving energy and money. For an additional 10-15% in up-front cost, windows can be purchased that have low-emissivity (low-E) coatings on the glass and low conductivity gases, like argon or krypton in the air space between each pane. The coatings and gases help prevent heat transfer. They increase the insulating value from R-1 for single paned windows to R-3 or more. The U.S. Department of Energy and Department of Environmental Conservation have developed Energy Star , a program to promote and register energy efficient products, such as energy-efficient windows, electronic devices and appliances. Windows that meet their standards are rated as Energy Star qualified. Look for this logo on energy efficient products while shopping. To help identify the best window ratings for your location, visit www.efficientwindows.org.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Wood | Jeld-wen |
PRO: Doesn't expand and contract as much as PVC, energy efficient, natural material CON: Requires painting every 5-7 years to avoid rotting. Note that many wood windows have PVC jamb liners. |
Home Depot, 84 Lumber, and other retailers. Log onto www.jeld-wen.com for retailer closest to you. | Double hung, 30 1/8" X 41" - $116 |
| Wood clad in Aluminum on outside |
Pella
Windows and Doors 800-374-4758 |
PRO: 63% of
Pella’s wood is certified – though not all by FSC.
95% of aluminum is recycled. Pella has a strong recycling and reuse
policy. Much lower thermal expansion coefficient, maintenance free and
generally more durable than PVC. Energy Star rated. CON: Aluminum processing emits significant air pollution. May contain some PVC parts. |
Lowe’s, Pella stores and outlets | Double hung 29" x 41" - $140 Pella 29" x 35" - $124 |
| Wood Clad in Fiberglass on outside |
Integrity Windows 888-537-7828 |
PRO: Fiberglass (known as Ultrex) exterior protects wood, energy efficient (Energy Star rated), minimal expansion and contraction, does not corrode. CON: Fiberglass processing emits significant air pollution. |
Dealers throughout NYS |
Double hung 30.5" x 40 1/4" - $215 |
| Aluminum | Crystal Windows |
PRO: Three times as strong as vinyl and forty three times stronger than wood. Resists deterioration and does not shrink, swell, split, crack, or rust. Can be painted. CON: Aluminum processing emits significant air pollution. Windows let heat escape, may produce condensation. Must add insulation between inside and outside of frame and sash to make even moderately energy efficient. |
Distributors throughout NYS (call 800-472-9988) |
Double hung 29" x 41" - $120 |
| Fiberglass | Inline Fiberglass 416-679-1171 |
PRO: Fiberglass is made of a widely available material – sand, and a resin. Durable, high energy efficiency, and quite strong. CON: Fiberglass processing emits significant air pollution. Difficult to recyle, no recycled content. |
Log onto www.inlinefiberglass.com for local retailer. |
Double hung 29" x 41" - $300 |
A well-insulated house is a key ingredient in its energy-efficiency, so choosing an insulation that is both health-protective and effective is important. Insulation is placed in the walls, in attics/roofs, and underneath the house. There are several ways to improve the energy efficiency when designing your house or addition. This can include using 2 x 6 construction for outer walls and adding thicker insulation, or by staggering 2 x 4 studs so that blown cellulose (shredded newsprint treated with boric acid) insulation can form a continuous layer. Conventional insulation is usually fiberglass, which can irritate the skin, eyes, nose and throat. Fiberglass can cause itching due to mechanical irritation from the fibers. Breathing fibers can irritate the airways. If you choose fiberglass, be sure to cover all skin and wear a dust mask. It also contains formaldehyde (see page 7 for more information about harm caused by formaldehyde production and use). However, some fiberglass manufacturers now offer formaldehyde free formulations, which are clearly marked as such. Houses may also have blown insulation, such as cellulose or concrete foam.
A wide range of options for insulation has emerged in recent decades, including cementous foam, which is cement mixed with air to form a “mousse” that can be injected into your existing walls, or applied to new construction. Like cellulose, it can fill in around all pipes and wires, and it’s flexible enough to run new wires through it should need arise. It has the added advantage of being entirely fire-resistant, as it contains nothing that will burn. If you want something that comes in rolls like fiberglass, there’s post-industrial recycled denim. For energy effiency, the higher the overall “R value” (the amount the material resists heat transfer), the better. The overall R-value varies by type of product, application, thickness, and brand, so if you're looking for new insulation, get accurate measurements for your job and use that information to find the best insulation for you.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Concrete Foam | Air Krete 315-834-6609 | PRO: Non-toxic, needs no treatment to resist pests, fire resistant, can be installed in existing houses. | Gutters, Insulation and More (distributor/installer) | Around 50 cents per board foot installed |
| Cellulose | U.S. Green Fiber 800-228-0024 | PRO:
Made from recycled newsaper treated wtih boric acid --
non-toxic, fire resistant in most cases. Can fill in tightly
around cables and pipes. CON: Can settle over time, insgtallation can be messy, must keep away from recessed lights and flues, boric acid (flame retardant) may corrode pipes. |
Home Depot, or Lowe's, or call 800-228-0024 for local retailer | 1-2 times that of fiberglass batt. |
| Cotton/Denim | Bonded Logic/ Ultra Touch 480-812-9114 | PRO: Made from
85% post-industrial denim scraps, non-toxic boric acid as fire and pest
retardant. CON: boric acid may corrode pipes. |
Order from Eco of NY 800-238-5008 | $0.5 - $1/square foot, depending on thickness. |
| Fiberglass - formaldehyde free | Johns Manville 800-654-3103 | PRO: Contains
no formaldehyde, made from recycled content. CON: Not recyclable. |
Many Lowe's stores carry this product. | $0.5 - $1/square foot, depending on thickness. |
Choosing new siding can be a difficult task when weighing cost, benefits to the house, and environmental impact of the product. Siding must withstand all types of weather, look attractive, and be affordable to buy, install and maintain. PVC siding has been growing in popularity over the past few decades, as the PVC industry plays up the easy install (even over older siding), low up-front cost and supposed simple maintenance. In reality, however, PVC siding grows more brittle over time, and can be more easily blown off in high winds. While it does not need painting, the colors of PVC siding are limited and will fade over time, and it is very difficult to paint or repair. PVC can be hazardous to occupants in the case of fire, as PVC does not burn but smolders, creating dioxin and hydrochloric acid (which can burn the lungs and kill a person long before normal smoke inhalation would), as well as numerous other environmental health impacts when manufactured, used and disposed of (see page 5 for details). There are many other options -- including solid wood, APA-rated plywood, oriented-strand board (OSB), wood-resin composites, stucco, fiber-cement, brick, polypropylene, masonite, and aluminum. Some of the more sustainable options are presented on the next page.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Composite (recycled wood fiber and cement) | James Hardie Siding
Products Hardie Siding 888-542-7343 |
PRO: Comes in many designs, colors.
Paintable. Non-toxic. More durable and lowwer maintenance than wood or
PVC. Won't burn or melt. Sturdy and weather
resistant. Often warrented for 50 years. CON: Must use precautions when cutting boards to avoid silica dust. |
Special order through some Home Depots, 84 Lumber, other suppliers. Call 888-542-7343 (Hardie) or 800-228-0024 (U.S. Green Fiber) for local dealer/retailers. | $1.20 - $1.80 per square foot installed |
| Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC) Certified Wood | Varies by locality. See www.forestethics.org. | PRO: Wood is natural, renewable, durable.
FSC certification means third-party verification that the wood is
sustainably grown and harvested. CON: High maintenance, will burn, can be infested with pests. |
Find suppliers at www.forestethics.org | $4.15-$5.40 per square foot (installed) |
| Brick | Contact local mason. | PRO: Durable, won't burn in fire, made of
natural materials. CON: Heavy, so may use more energy if brick must be trans- ported long distances. Requires skilled labor to install. |
Contact local mason. | $6.18 per square foot (installed) |
| Aluminum | Alcoa | PRO: Recyclable, durable, non-combustible,
can be made from recycled aluminum, and requires very little
maintenance. Will not chip flake, peel. CON: Aluminum processing emits significant air pollution. |
Log onto www.alcoahomes.com for a quote from local contractors. | $4.50 per square foot (installed) |
The roofing material shields the house from the elements and adds style. There are many different options for roofing. For steep roofs, there are asphalt shingles, metal of various shapes and sizes, wood shingles, concrete composite or slate. For shallow or flat roofs, there are options like tar, asphalt rolls, membranes such as EPDM and TPO (see last two listings in chart on next page). Asphalt and tar plants release noxious chemicals such as formaldehyde, hexane, phenol, polycyclic organic matter, and toluene. Exposure to these air toxics may cause cancer, central nervous system problems, liver damage, respiratory problems and skin irritation. Regardless of the type of material you choose, the choice of color will influence heating requirements. A black or dark colored roof will absorb more heat, increasing cooling costs in summer. A lighter, more reflective roof will decrease these costs. The color of the roof does not play as significant a role in winter heating costs. In upstate New York, the long-term best choice may well be a light-colored baked-enamel finished metal roof, as it will reflect summer heat, and allow snow to slide off of it without forming ice dams. The prices for metal roofs vary widely, but most are somewhat more expensive to install. However, a well-made and well-installed metal roof can far outlast an asphalt roof, saving money in the long run.
If you have a flat roof, consider creating a “green roof” -- covered with plants. These start with a membrane like TPO, and then have a layer of growing substrate (engineered soil) that selected plants can grow in. Green roofs can cut down on cooling costs, keep rainwater from simply running off into streams or sewers, help reduce air pollution and look nice. For more information, check out www.communityresources.org/greenroof.html or www.greenroofs.com.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Metal | Many. See www.metalroofing.com | PRO: Made from recycled material, recyclable. Lasts at least 2-3 times as long as asphalt. Reflects heat, reducing summer cooling, sheds snow easily. 50 year warantee. | Widely available Click here for contractors | 2-3 times (or more) than asphalt shingles. |
| Asphalt | Many | PRO:
Inexpensive. Light colored
shingles will reflect more heat. CON: Uses toxic materials, which can run off. Petroleum based. Large contributor to landfilled waste. |
Any home improvement store. | $0.35 - $1 per square foot. |
| Composite | Enviroshake 866-423-3302 | PRO: 95%
recycled post-industrial plastics,
crumb rubber, cellulosic fibers, etc. Look like cedar but
doesn't rot. 50 year warantee. CON: Not recyclable. |
23 locations in New York State. | Approximately $3 per square foot. |
| Flat Roofs | ||||
| TPO | Stevens Roofing System | PRO: Less toxic in production than asphalt or PVC. Can be recycled into lower-quality products. | Dave Brown Stevens Regional Sales Director, 518-762-2071 |
Comparable to similar vinyl roofing. |
| EPDM | Firestone Building Products 800-428-4442 | PRO: Less toxic than asphalt or PVC. | Admiral - NY Regional Sales - 978-988-1166 | Comparable to similar vinyl roofing. |
Most people do not realize that nearly all of the electrical wiring they encounter is coated with PVC. (See page 5 for more information about the health problems posed by PVC). Currently, the National Electrical Code (NEC) in essence requires the use of PVC coated wire and cable for residential housing because of its high kindling point (when it starts to burn). While this fire-retardant property is widely touted by the PVC industry, smoldering PVC releases toxic hydrochloric acid and heavy metals. This means that while PVC-free wiring and cable is readily available for projects that do not need to conform to the NEC, housing projects must use PVC coated cable. It is a good idea to ask your contractor or electrician if this is the case when you have work done on your house, and if it is possible to use PVC-free cable and wire, we encourage you to do so. Check out Healthy Building Network's website for information about PVC-free wire.
Back to topPipes are used around the house for plumbing and drainage. Recently, PVC pipe has become popular for drainage and waste water pipes because it is lightweight and easily installed. However, it lacks durability. Sunlight, heat and impact damage lead to frequent early repair or replacement of PVC systems. PVC is especially susceptible to expansion and contraction, which places a constant strain upon the joints and the fixings. This problem has not been solved and aging exacerbates the wear caused by expansion and contraction, as does the hardening of the rubber seals used at joints.
There is a range of traditional and new materials that don’t rely on PVC and offer the same or improved qualities with fewer lifecycle hazards. Choose pipe products to meet project needs (i.e., polyethylene pipe where weight is a primary consideration, clay or cast iron where durability is most important. When comparing costs, consider the life span of your options, including cost of repeated installation or repair. For example, while a PVC pipe drainage system may initially cost much less than a comparable vitrified clay pipe system, clay pipe systems last 4 - 5 times longer than the PVC system, which saves not only materials but also labor costs over time.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Foundation Drainage (Around Outside of House) | ||||
| High density polyethylene (HDPE) | Hancor Pipe 800-FOR-PIPE | PRO: Durable, made from at least 50% recycled materials. | Call 800-FOR-PIPE for nearest dealer. | $0.45/ft. for 4" pipe (comes in 250 ft. rolls) or $0.95/ft. for 6" pipe (comes in 100 ft. rolls) |
| Drainage, Waste, Venting (Inside the House) | ||||
| Cast Iron Pipe | Tylor Pipe 800-527-8478 | PRO: Made from
recycled iron.
Durable, recyclable, quieter than any plastic. Can
be attached without soldering. CON: Very heavy. |
Go to www.tylerpipe.com/ ny.htm for NY sales reps or call 800-527-8478. | $4.58/ ft. for 3" pipe; $5.95/ft. for 4' pipe (comes in 10 ft. sections) |
There are many different ways to cover floors: with hard surfaces, like wood or tile, with resilient surfaces like linoleum, or with carpets. Each choice can have both environmental and health impacts.
People who are concerned about asthma triggers in their homes should consider hard floors as a primary option instead of wall-to-wall carpet. If hardwood floors are treated with a non-toxic finish, they can be durable and attractive. Seek FSC certified hardwoods to protect the sustainability of our forests. Bamboo, which is ready for harvest in only four to six years, is an attractive, sustainable, moderately priced alternative to hardwoods and is more durable than many varieties. Tile floors can be made from recycled glass tiles, which are inexpensive, use resources wisely, look nice, and can be sterilized to reduce allergens. Tile absorbs heat and can act as a heat sink, helping to store solar energy during the day to keep the house comfortable at night. Some manufacturers use reclaimed lumber from older structures (see page 13, where this practice is discussed in relation to framing) as flooring. Hard floors can also be made from materials like fastgrowing bamboo, with looks similar to hardwood.
Many people have enjoyed the look and easy cleaning of linoleum for decades. Did you know that most tile and sheet “linoleum” is actually made from PVC, and can release toxic chemicals into your indoor air as it ages? Many staff at home improvement stores don’t understand the difference, but the original natural linoleum is made from linseed oil, a natural product. It does not have the same environmental or health impacts of PVC. These floors can be cleaned to prevent the buildup of contaminants and allergens. There are also cork floors available, made from a rapidly renewable source.
Many people view carpets as comfortable additions to their home, but don’t realize the amount of material that gets trapped in them. They are a sink for dirt, allergens, and pathogens, but also contain toxic materials that stick to the carpet fibers and are difficult to remove. Most experts recommend using area rugs that can be removed and washed periodically over wall-to-wall carpets.
Carpets were traditionally made from natural materials like wool. Today, some wall-to-wall and area carpets are made from synthetic materials with PVC backing to keep the fibers in order. However, some companies, like Shaw, have found healthier alternatives for their backings. Safer choices, listed below, range from fairly conventional carpet with a polyolefin backing, to all natural carpets of jute, hemp, and wool. Wool carpets have numerous advantages, including looking good until just before the end of their use, as fibers shear off in layers. Individual fibers are durable and hold their springiness for a long time. Up-front costs vary greatly, from that of conventional carpet upwards. You can also reduce the number of potentially toxic chemicals in your home by choosing not to get stain-resistant treatments applied to your carpet. They may prevent stains from setting in, but they will also outgas chemicals into your indoor air. Choosing natural-fiber area rugs on top of some other type of flooring (such as recycled glass tile) can enable cleaning options to keep contaminants to a minimum. When having wall-to-wall carpet installed, use mechanical attachment (staples or nails around the perimeter) if possible – the adhesive used to attach carpet to subflooring can release toxic chemicals known as Perfluorooctanoic Acids (PFOAs) into the air as well. The compounds are used in a huge range of consumer products, including Teflon and carpet stain protectors. They linger in the environment and accumulate in living tissues. Exposure may lead to increased risks of birth defects, developmental or other health problems, including cancer, according to the EPA, based on animal studies and other research.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Hard Flooring | ||||
| Bamboo | Moso 800-617-2324 Eco Friendly Flooring 866-250-3273 |
PRO: Rapidly renewable, harvested with no harm to its natural habitat, bamboo will regrow from harvested stumps. Durable. Easy to care for. |
Contact them directly – no NYS dealers |
$4 - $5/square foot $3.75 - $7/square foot |
| Ceramic Tile | Eco-Wise 512- 326-447 |
At least 55% recycled glass, Hand-crafted ceramic tiles that are water, frost, chemical, and stain resistant. |
www.ecowise.com | $14 - $17/square foot |
| Recycled Glass Tiles | Eco-Wise (see contact above) |
PRO: The strength of recycled glass tiles exceeds that of ceramic tiles, making them ideal for any job where a tile surface is used. 100% recycled glass from post-consumer or post-industrial sources. |
Contact them directly – no NYS dealers |
$40 - $50/square foot |
| Resilient Floor Covering | ||||
| Linoleum | Eco Friendly Flooring 866-250-3273 |
PRO: Decomposes in dump, may be compostable, naturally antimicrobial. Available in float-ing floor planks — top layer of linoleum, middle layer of recy-cled fiberboard, and bottom layer of cork that can lock into place without glue or nails. |
Contact Manufacturer | $5 -$6/square foot |
| Marmoleum | Marmoleum 570-459-0771 |
PRO: Made of natural materials. Naturally anti-static, anti-microbial. |
Many throughout NY. See website, under “Dealer Search” |
$5 -$6/square foot You must also purchase Forbo’s adhesive, cleaner, and finish, which will increased overall cost. |
| Cork | Expanko |
PRO: Naturally mold resistant, renewable product, zero VOC, During the manufacturing process, all raw materials are consumed, either for the fin-ished flooring product or as an energy source. Additionally, all recommended finishes, sealers, and adhesives are water-based and environmentally friendly. |
Ithaca Tile & Hardwood, Inc. 607-272-2763 will ship anywhere in NYS |
$10/square foot |
| Recycled Rubber | Expanko Reztec Chunks | PRO: Made from a unique blend of recycled tires, post industrial waste rubber and virgin rubber. CON: Tires contain chemicals that could offgas into the home. |
Ithaca Tile & Hardwood, Inc. 607-272-2763 |
$8.50 - $12/square foot |
| Carpet, Wool | Earth Weave Carpet Mills 706-278-8200 |
PRO: COMPLETELY biodegradable. 100% natural raw materials. Face fiber is 100% natural wool. No moth proofing or stain pro-tections applied, no harsh dyes or chemical bonding agents, use a natural primary of hemp and cotton. Adhesive is 100% natu-ral and bio-degradable, made of natural rubber. The back of car-pet is jute. |
Available only through manufacturer |
$5 - $6/square foot |
Drywall is a relatively benign product. Unused drywall gypsum can be recycled back into new drywall if most of the paper is removed. The paper limits the amount of recycled gypsum allowed in new drywall, because the paper content affects its fire rating. One company produces drywall that is 15 – 20% recycled; it is working on technology to decrease the paper content so that it can further increase the recycled content. Scrap drywall can also be ground into powder and turned into soils. This helps to amend soils with high clay content and improve water retention.
Despite the fact that we commonly call it “wall paper,” many residential and commercial wall coverings are in fact made from films of PVC in part or in whole. Some wall papers are in fact paper, coated with PVC to make them more durable. Others are PVC with some kind of paper backing. The problems with PVC in wall coverings go beyond the previously discussed problems with production and disposal of the PVC. Because PVC is not breathable, moisture that gets trapped behind the “paper” can promote toxic mold. It also out-gasses the plasticizers that make it flexible, causing it to become brittle over time, and can affect indoor air quality (the phthalates are suspected of triggering asthma attacks). (For a more complete description of the environmental and health impacts of PVC, please see page 5.)
Fortunately, there are many alternatives to vinyl wall paper. The most simple is to paint your interior with a low-VOC or VOC-free paint. If you want the decorative effect of wall paper, consider the options presented below. There are many safer alternatives to vinyl wall coverings that are lightweight, durable, washable, easily installed, and made of more sustainable materials.
Painting your walls not only adds color and style to a room or outside wall, but it also provides a protective covering against dirt and moisture. Most people are aware of two main types of paint – oilbased and latex. The problem with oil-based paints is that they contain many toxic chemicals, including benzene, toluene, xylene and formaldehyde, and require even more toxic chemicals to clean up after a paint job is done, such as xylene or toluene. Latex-based paints also include toxic ingredients, though they are much easier to clean up, requiring only soap and water. Once applied to the wall, some of the toxic chemicals, called “volatile organic compounds” or “VOCs,” can outgas from the paint and into the air for up to eleven months, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). The good news is that paint companies are becoming sensitive to these problems and creating paints that don’t harm indoor air quality and have fewer toxic chemicals. When looking for an environmentally friendly paint, it’s important to look for low-VOC paints, but also to make sure any VOCs present are nontoxic and nonreactive. GreenSeal certification is a good guarantee of a relatively non toxic paint. No matter which paint you use, ventilate space by opening doors and windows for at least 48 hours or until paint thoroughly dries before reinhabiting the room, especially for pregnant women and young children.
OTHER OPTIONS
There are other ways to cover walls that can be fun, creative and give you the design you’re looking for. This can include using fabric, tinted plaster (for texture and color), or anything that you can imagine. Some of these techniques are fairly labor intensive and can therefore be more expensive. But if you are redoing a room interior yourself, then all you need is time and some instructions. Look for Do-It-Yourself books at the local library or bookstore for creative ideas and how to implement them in your home.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Paint | ||||
| Low-Voc Latex Paint | Olympic Premium | Pro: Low VOCs. | In Stock at Lowes | $14-18/ gallon |
| Benjamin Moore Pristine EcoSpec |
PRO: Low VOCs. Benjamin Moore makes a low-VOC primer as well. CON: Still contains some toxic materials. |
True Value Hardware Stores, paint stores – see Benjamin Moore and enter your zipcode. Must special order primer |
$29-34/ gallon | |
| Milk Paint | Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company, Inc. |
PRO: Contains no hydrocarbons or any other petroleum deriva-tives. Non-toxic. CON: More limited palette and sheen options. |
Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company, Inc. 34 dealers in New York State |
$44/ gallon |
| BioSheild Casein Milk Paint |
PRO: Made from natural materi-als. Non-toxic. Comes in powder form, so lightweight shipping. CON: More limited palette and sheen options. |
www.milkpaint.com 34 dealers in New York State |
$7-44/ gallon equivalent | |
| Zero- VOC Paint | AFM Safecoat primer and paint 800-239-0321 |
PRO: Zero VOC emissions, free of other toxic chemicals, like formaldehyde, ammonia, and acetone. |
Environmental Construction Outfitters of New York 800.238.5008 |
$30/gallon |
| Wallpaper | ||||
| Natural Fibers hand crafted Oriental grasscloths and textiles, PVC free backing | Eastgate III Collection from Washington Wall Coverings | Pro: Natural Fibers, less toxic | Special order from Home Depot | $18 - $54 a single roll |
| Mandarin Fantasy From Washington Wall Coverings | Con: More Expensive | Special order from Lowe’s | $39 - $45 a single roll | |
The biggest issue for heating and cooling has to do with energy efficiency. Heating, Ventilating and Air Conditioning (HVAC) systems can account for as much as 60% of home energy use. Water heaters can also use a lot of energy. The energy efficiency of a house is a combination of factors, such as how tightly sealed the house is (though a wellsealed house is more energy efficient, these houses can trap pollutants indoors longer due to a slower air exchange with the outdoor air – an air exchanger is needed to ensure an adequate supply of fresh air indoors), how well insulated it is, and the efficiency of windows. The simplest thing you can do to cut cooling costs is to install ceiling fans, and/or to install a wholehouse fan that draws air through the entire building. By using the much-less energy intensive fans instead of air conditioners whenever possible, you can save money and energy. To cut heating costs, make sure all doors and windows are well sealed. You can cut costs on hot water heating by wrapping the water heater in a specially-designed blanket. Buying a programmable thermostat (available at most hardware and home improvement stores) and setting the temperature to be cooler (in winter) or warmer (in summer) when the house is empty can reduce energy consumption. If you are building a new house, it may make sense to use geothermal heating pumps, which involve running pipes deep into the earth.
There are also new two-phase heat pumps rated for cold climates that can be as energy-efficient as geothermal heat pumps. The manufacturer is Nyle Special Products. This can save up to 40% of your heating costs. There are also new two-phase heat pumps rated for cold climates that can be as energy-efficient as geothermal heat pumps. If you are renovating, however, it can be prohibitively expensive. When choosing a conventional heating and cooling system look for one that is Energy Star rated (by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency) which guarantees that it is at least 15% more efficient that the average system on the market. Also, if you are replacing your heating system, consider those which use the same furnace for heating hot water on demand and providing hot water for baseboard heaters. This can save costs on hot water heating (no tank to keep warm all the time) and reduce fuel costs for heating. Energy Star heating and cooling systems are currently available at most stores. Typically, Lowe’s carries more Energy Star appliances, though both Home Depot and Lowe’s carry them. Many department stores also carry Energy Star products. Talk with your contractor about the most efficient heating and cooling system for your house and budget. Keep in mind that while some more efficient systems cost more up front, they will pay for themselves in a few years. Look for the Energy Star label on energy efficient products.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Energy Star Rated Furnaces | Energy Star furnaces | PRO: Energy Star rated furnaces are more than 90% efficient,making them at least 15% more efficient than other models. |
Home improvement stores and local dealers | Varies based on house size, location, etc. |
| Geothermal Heat Pump | Heat Pumps | PRO: Use 40-60% less energy than conventional heat pumps
– rely on earth’s steady temperature to keep homes
comfortable. CON: High upfront cost, only good for new construction. |
Locate a contrator in your area | Depends on house size, depth of drilling etc. |
| Room Air Conditioner | Kenmore Frigidaire Friedrich Carrier |
Energy Star qualified room air conditioners use at least 10% less energy than conventional models. |
Department stores Home Improvement stores |
$200-450 depending on size and manufacturer |
| Ceiling Fans | Hunter Hampton Bays, Others |
PRO: Promote air circulation, reduce need for air conditioning. Available with or without lights. |
Lowe's Home Depot |
$40-70 |
Energy- and water-efficient appliances are now widely available on the market. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has an energy efficiency rating system called “Energy Star” (www.energystar.gov). In addition, new appliances are required to provide information on energy and water usage and compare that usage and estimated cost to similar models. Although Energy Star models are more efficient, they are not necessarily the most efficient on the market. Many more efficient models may be available at somewhat more significant up front cost. However, if you have the budget to allow you to choose them, high-efficiency models can save you more in 5-10 years. Look for water and energy efficient washers, dryers, dishwashers, stoves and refrigerators as you shop – many of the Energy Star rated appliances are available at places like Lowe’s and Home Depot, as well as department and appliance stores.
| Type of Material | Manufacturer/Brand | Pro/Con | Availability | Cost |
| Appliances | ||||
| Front Loading Washing Machine | Kenmore Kenmore (3.1 /cubic ft) or Kenmore Elite (3.7 Cubic feet) |
Pro: 67%-77% less energy and 67% less water than conventional washers. Extraction feature removes more water, cutting drying time. Energy star rated. |
Sears | $720 (3.1 cu. ft) $1430 (3.7 cu. ft) |
| Bosch Axxis or Axxis+ Bosch Laundry Machines |
Reduces water use by roughly 70% and energy consumption by 78%. Energy star rated. |
Sears Lowe's |
$930-$1,100 | |
| Asko Laundry Machines | Reduces water use by 65% to 87% depending on setting. Energy star rated. |
Modern Kitchens to locate a dealer | $1,050 | |
| Dishwasher | Bosch Dishwashers | Up to 39% less energy; 39% less water. Energy Star rated. |
Sears Lowe's |
$570 & $840 |
| Kenmore and Kenmore Elite | 32% less energy and 32% less water (7 - 10 gallons versus 8 - 14 per wash) than conventional dishwashers. Energy Star rated. |
Sears | $640, $990 | |
| Kitchenaid | 33% less energy. Energy Star rated. |
Sears Lowe's |
$759 | |
| Refrigerators | Maytag General Electric, others |
Energy Star models use at least 15% less energy than required by current federal standards, and 40% less energy than the conventional models sold in 2001. |
Sears, Lowe's Home improvement or appliance stores |
$600-2,500 |
| Fixtures | ||||
| Toilets: Pressure, Gravity | Various | All new toilets for residential use are 1.6 gallons per flush. See www.toiletology.com for descriptions of options on the market. |
Sears Lowe's |
$145-400 |
| Composting Toilets | Envirolet® W/RS Non-Electric |
PRO: Waterless – reducing water and sewer costs, or reducing pressure on septic tank. Waste product, once composted, can be used as fertilizer. CON: much more costly. |
Envirolet® | $1,595 |
| Faucet Aerators | Various | Models 2.75 gallons per minute or below can reduce water consumption by 50%. |
Widely available | less than $5 |
| Low flow Shower Head | Various | Look for models rated at 2.5 gallons per minute which reduce water consumption by 50%. |
Home Depot Hardware Stores |
$8 and up |
Fixtures, such as toilets, showers and sinks can consume lots of water. You can make a simple improvement in water conservation by replacing older showerheads with “low-flow” showerheads that maintain pressure while reducing the flow (gallons-per-minute). If you are updating a bathroom and have a toilet manufactured before the 1990s, you may want to consider replacing it. A 1.6 gallon-per-flush toilet can use 23% to 46% less water, an average of 10.5 gallons less per person daily. These simple changes can help reduce water and sewage expenses if you use municipal water, and conserve groundwater if you use a well. Better yet, a dual flush toilet uses even less water and they are becoming much more common on the market.
Until now, we have focused on building or renovating a traditional wood-frame house. However, there are housing designs that don’t rely on the traditional techniques or building materials. These houses consume fewer resources in their construction, and often rely on inexpensive, locally available materials. If you are interested in learning more about these green building techniques, check out the resources section of the guide on the next page.
Adobe construction is arguably one of the most popular green building techniques. Adobe homes are made up of mud bricks, composed of clay and sand mixed with water and heated in the sun. Building with adobe has numerous advantages. First and foremost, adobe is probably the easiest material to build with. Since it is made of mud it is easy to cut and shape. Adobe bricks consume low amounts of energy, emit low levels of pollutants during manufacturing, and in combination with good passive solar design, make for an effective energy-saving solution in cold winter areas.
Bamboo has been used in the construction of homes for hundreds of years. Bamboo is a renewable product. Hardwood trees require over 40 years to grow to maturity, but bamboo can be harvested in just four to six years. Bamboo has an extensive root system constantly growing underground, replenishing itself naturally. By using bamboo you help to preserve the habitat of endangered wildlife, unlike the harvesting of other hardwoods.
Cob construction uses hands and feet to form lumps of earth mixed with sand and straw, a sensory and aesthetic experience similar to sculpting with clay. Mixed well, this special mud is applied to the foundation in continuing layers. When dry, the walls are very hard and load bearing. Cob building techniques are easy to learn and inexpensive to build. Because there are no forms, ramming, cement or rectilinear bricks, cob lends itself to organic shapes: curved walls, arches and niches. Cob homes are cool in the summer and warm in winter. Cob has been used for millennia even in the harsh climates of coastal Britain, and at the high latitudes of the Aleutians.
Cordwood Masonry is a low-cost, energy efficient, easily constructed and aesthetically pleasing building technique in which short logs are laid widthwise within a special mortar matrix. The wall derives excellent insulation and thermal mass characteristics from insulation sandwiched between the inner and outer mortar joints. Cordwood masonry is also beautiful, combining the texture of stone masonry with the warmth of wood.
Papercrete, also called fibrous cement, is a remarkable building material composed of recycled papers mixed with sand and cement to form walls, blocks, panels, domes, etc. This is potentially an ideal building material because it is cheap, utilizing unwanted newspapers, magazines, cardboard and other recycled paper materials. Papercrete homes do not mold, swell, or attract insects, and are surprisingly fire resistant. This is a new method, still untested in some environments, but the potential is enormous for do-it-yourself builders.
This type of house is built just like the name states: pounding damp soil into movable, reusable frames with manual or machine-powered pneumatic tampers to create a firm and steady house. Mass walls absorb solar energy during winter days and then re-radiate that energy to offset nighttime heat losses within the building. In the summer months, the mass of the walls absorbs excess heat generated during the day, keeping the inside spaces surprisingly cool, and then releases that stored heat to the night sky. In a properly designed and oriented building, this can mean significant savings in heating and cooling bills. Rammed earth buildings are fire resistant, pest resistant, long lasting, resistant to weathering, and do not outgas hazardous fumes.
People have built homes using straw, grass, or reed throughout history. Building with tightly packed strawbales has become increasingly popular in recent years. Straw-bale buildings boast quiet, well-insulated walls, simple construction, low costs, and the conversion of an agricultural byproduct into a healthy building material. Properly constructed and maintained, straw-bale houses remain waterproof, fire resistant, and pest free. In humid climates, as with conventional materials, efforts need to be taken to prevent moisture accumulation. Once the house is constructed, the interiors and exteriors are plastered over, so the appearance is very similar to a conventional house.